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Paraty
Rio de Janeiro State
- Brazil
A fluminense jewel (Automatic translation, under review)
Paraty (or Parati, or Paratii) are to 260 km to the south of Rio de Janeiro, and to 90 km to the south of Angra two Kings. I crossed east way with the car which I rented in River, which was an excellent option considering my previous trip (in 2001) in omnibus.
The route is in quite good conditions and the landscapes that are seen in the way are gorgeous.
Like in all Brazil, the signaling of the routes and ways are enough poor man, in general the posters indicate the exits of the freeways and routes on the same exits, instead of making it 100 or 200 meters before, but luckily in this trip I took for the first time my GPS, that provided with the maps with the States of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo was very useful.
Paraty is a colonial city, very similar to Colony of the Sacrament in Uruguay, although conserved not so well as this last one.
It was founded on century XVI and in center is the historical helmet, place with spotted streets and where it is not allowed to accede with cars. In this place is many commerce decorated with very good taste, is many restaurants, some bars, several commerce of regalería, etc.
Some constructions have masónica simbología, in fact in the entrance of the city (near the roundhouse of access or trevo), it exists the symbol masón as it shows irrefutable of the past and present bond between Paraty and masones.
Like in the last trips that I made, I decided to stay in a place a little but moved away the urban center, to reduce costs and in return to have car every day. It was an excellent option.
I lodged in an inn located in the Paraty-Cunha way, to very few kilometers of Paraty (only some minutes in car). All the inns of the zone, give to the Perequê-Açú river in the part of back, with which the therapeutic sound of the water running is permanent.
Near the inn there are several cascades, between which the Cachoeira stands out do Tobogã, is an enormous stone that is crossed by water at great speed, forming tobogán from which people throw themselves. Some even do “surf” stopped on the stone, while the water runs underneath.
This way, where are the inns and cascades (Paraty-Cunha way), is part which it was known like the route of gold. By this way at the time of the colony the gold was transferred that came from the state of Gerais Mines towards Paraty, where was embarked for Europe (and usually it finished in England by the debts that Portugal had with this country).
In Paraty, as well as in the bordering zones, there is much nautical activity. Very pretty sailboats (generally of not less than 28 feet) and boats of all type can be seen. In some near ports, as well as in Angra two Kings rent sailboats with or without crew, which represents an excellent option to enjoy to plenary session of the place, although according to it says itself is not a place where there is much wind.
There is a great Brazilian navigator, by who I feel a great respect, call Amyr Klink. Although he is paulista of birth, feels a great love by Paraty, place that he adopted as operational base.
Amyr made things as incredible as to cross to oar the Atlantic Ocean yes (, to oar), to give the return to the world around the Antártida in its Paraty sailboat (of 15 meters) or to construct a called aluminum sailboat Paratii 2, with which it went several times to the Antártida.
Paraty normally is used like scene of films or novels of time. During my trip, I found with surprise a Globe overproduction, that the miniseries “Amazon” was filming, acclimating a great zone near the port as if we were in the heat of century XIX.
Places to visit:
In center of Paraty there is an office of official tourism. As always I do in each city that I visit, I approached to request a map of the zone. When they gave a battered photocopy to me, with some red spots that supposedly did of map, I remained watching surprised the government official, the one that immediately said to me that in the agency of tourism of alongside it could find a map better. Indeed, in the agency of alongside (where they took advantage of to try to sell something to me) they gave a worthy map to me, in paper illustration, colors and with enough details of beaches.
It is really a shame which a place that lives on the tourism not even makes a minimum investment in maps, another sample of typical Latin American ineptitude for the government management.
Cais do I carry
It is where it is the wharf of the port of Paraty. A quite pretty and colorful place, specially by the colorful thing and varied of the boats.
He is peculiar which the port does not have access to any street, reason why is not possible to arrive in car. This can seem a triviality, but for example, an ambulance in case of emergency with some boat could not arrive until the place.
Praia do Pontal
It is in center of Paraty. There are several very pleasant bars.
He is something contaminated due to the proximity of the Perequê-açú river, where some estates make their unloadings.
Praia do Jabaquara
From Pontal, after passing the Nose do Forte, is born Praia do Jabaquara. He is quite great and also it tells com bars. Supposedly it has medicinal mud.
It is not of best beaches.
Trindade
Trindade is a natural beauty, I did a story detailed of the place, podés to see doing click here
Paraty-Mirim
Going towards the south of Paraty by the Paraty-Saint route, but before arriving at Trindade, towards the left it leaves a dirt road that leads to Paraty Mirim.
After minutes of route it is arrived at a small village, where the car can be left and the beach is to meters.
In the beach there are some boats that offer a stroll by the islands. I took one from those boats and I visited Coat gives Velha, a very pretty place, with an impressive vegetation, much nautical activity and paradisíacas islands.
The price is fixed by stroll (not by person) and is possible to negotiate in direct form with the captain of the boat since everything is very informal. The price was of R$150 for 6 people.
Praia Grande
Going towards the north of Paraty by the BR-101 it is arrived at Praia Grande. In the beach there is a wharf from where they leave boats towards the near islands.
It is not a good beach for bath.
The car parked and from one of the ends can be let arrive at Prainha, after crossing a small footpath.
Prainha
One of beaches prettier than visits in Paraty. The beach, quite calm and ideal is enough girl to take a bath in the sea.
In means of the beach there is a bar, a little expensive, but pleasant.
São Gonçalo
Following by the BR-101 towards the north Gonzalo arrives itself at São.
One is a very great beach and with very clean water, at which he arrives himself after leaving the car in a parking near the route and to cross a small river.
There are boats that make strolls to the islands. There I rented kayak, is very safe because the waves are small.
São Gonçalinho
He is next to São Gonzalo and as its name indicates it she is smaller than first. Another one of beautiful beaches of Paraty that is worth the trouble to visit.
Tarituba
Following towards the north it is arrived at Tarituba, departure point of the boats for the islands, like Ilha do Breu (a very beautiful place, www.ilhadobreu.com.br) or Bare Ilha do.
Bare Ilha do
Starting off of Tarituba, the cost was of R$5 to arrive until the Bare Ilha do and the trip delays only minutes. The return is economic, R$2 by pesona.
The island has 3 very pretty beaches and with very crystalline water, but for my taste there was too much people and he is very familiar.
Mambucaba
I only happened through minutes in Mambucaba, when I visited Angra two Kings, so I could not much cross.
Nevertheless I could see that the beach was very generous in its dimensions.
I could see some very old constructions, including an old not very well conserved church.
Porto Bracuí
Porto Bracuí or Bracuhy, is a hemoso place, specially for that it pleases of the nautical one.
It is a deprived, very exclusive district, with hotel, inn and navy for the boats. Do Frade is near another beautiful place called Porto.
In the entrance the “Ruins can be seen do Central Engenho of Bracuhy”, are ruins, but conserved very well:)
The boats are in excellently conditions, has security in the entrance and in navy and everything he is limpísimo.
Ilha Comprida
They gave a trip to me in one escuna (boat) to cross the environs of Paraty. It was really a brilliant experience and I recommend it totally.
We left the port of Paraty Cais do Porto and first we made a technical shutdown in Marina 188 to supply with gasoline escuna. That route is very short, but most beautiful sailboats can be seen, I even saw famous Paraty II of Amyr Klink, but lamentably I did not get to photograph it.
Once supplied we maintained course towards comprida Ilha, a wonderful place, where escuna cast anchor to allow that we jumped to the water and we swam freely.
It did not have snorkel equipment, but it had been a brilliant place to use it. The water in addition to being absolutely transparent is tempered.
Praia Vermelha
After Ilha Comprida we went to Playa Vermelha, where we cast anchor again and the captain invited to us to go to earth, that he wanted could do it swimming or but they would take to us in an auxiliary boat.
I took anger and I sent myself to do it swimming, I am not good swimmer, but it was a temptation by the pleasant thing of the water and in addition the distance was enough short.
Once in the beach (already it felt to me like an adventurer, it had jumped of the cover of the swum boat and until the coast) I was with a small bar where I tasted delicious shrimps of prize.
Praia do Baré
The last shutdown of the trip in scuna was Playa do Baré, where also there was a small bar and a beach, walking by the beach it is arrived at an old left still.
In all Paraty there are many stills that were used formerly for the accomplishment of the Cachaça or Pinga.
Gastronomy: My gastronomical experience in Paraty was quite irregular, visits some very good places and very bad others. They do not let prove camarão casadinho, typical plate of the place.
The Chafariz restaurant, is an excellent place, it had visited it in my previous trip to Paraty and already continues with a very good quality and reasonable prices.
The Paraty Coffee is located in front of the source of the Praça do Chafariz (the seat of the center of Paraty). It is a very pleasant place, when I was was live music (excellent bossa novates) and I ate well.
The Che Guevara is not (nor remotely) santo of my devotion, nevertheless one night I surprised my brain a little sleepy and decided to visit “Che bar and restaurant” and to redescubrir my “progressive” flank. The attention was malísima, the delay was highest and at the time of the account there was no socialism that was worth, were well capitalist, with prices almost as great as the mandate of Fidel Castro (it nótese that I said “almost” and that that was most expensive).
“Flavor do Sea” is a quite pleasant place, but with prices of first world.
Philomena was another one of the bad experiences of Paraty, I was a pair of times and they were always homogenous with the attention, was always bad. Besides to wait for an eternity until the simplest orders the prices they were not agreed to the quality.
Traveler's nightmare: The worse thing does not have to do with the place, but with the climate. January is not a good time to visit Paraty because it is time of rains. Every day it practically rained, at least minutes per day, but always it rained.
Things you should not miss: I believe that the best thing than has Paraty is that she is very pretty from all the points:
The city is pretty, is a good gastronomical supply, is bars, is commerce of all type.
The interior also is pretty, is many cascades, a river, is the way of gold to cross, is very pretty an ecological reserve.
And finally from the sea also she is gorgeous, there is many islands, much nautical activity, many beautiful beaches.
What podés not to let do is: to go to Paraty. It is a place that I recommend totally.
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